"Ryanator122" (hawkeye122)
08/02/2014 at 17:53 • Filed to: None
0
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"Ryanator122" (hawkeye122)
08/02/2014 at 17:53 • Filed to: None | 0
| 11 |
They aren't related, it's just two questions...
Lately, I've noticed that my front brakes are starting to grumble and squeal, which to me says they need replacing (Pads at least, but I think I could use new discs if I have the money).
Sadly, as with my tires thread, the only knowledge of brake purchasing I have is "Oh, yeah, go down to Napa Auto Parts and buy the cheapest ones."
I'm not trying to build a super-duper, game changing, Time attack/Autocross/Track Day/Drag Racing/Club racing weapon, partly because I don't have the money, and partly because I don't own a Fox-body Mustang. Just a Mazda 6s with an Automatic V6, but I want to give it slightly more performance-oriented parts than stock.
As far as what I want in brake pads, well, I just need something that'll last me a while, but still give decent stopping power. I give very few fucks about noise or dust, ya know?
Now, for the oil issue... Every time I roll up to a stop light, stop sign, my carport, a parking space, etc. my oil light flickers for a second or so. It doesn't stay on for any amount of time, just sort of blinks, the same way an incandescent lightbulb would if it needed replacing.
I've repeatedly checked the dipstick, and I've always got what appears to be plenty of oil. Also, I've always had the correct flavor of oil put in, and change it slightly more often than the factory interval (Owners Manual says 5000, I do it between 3500-4000). My theory is that because of the high ambient temperatures here (100 degrees or higher on most days) the oil becomes less viscous, and just barely trips the sensor because of the perceived lower pressure. Is this sound logic? It isn't really burning oil at all, and the performance doesn't seem to be affected at all, I'm just a bit worried as it has been doing this since April, and I thought after an oil change it wouldve gone away, but it hasnt.
Tl;DR
Recommend me brakes, and my oil light is freaking me out.
GeorgeyBoy
> Ryanator122
08/02/2014 at 17:58 |
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For brakes just go with what you can afford, look on Rockauto.
Year?
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Ryanator122
> GeorgeyBoy
08/02/2014 at 18:00 |
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That was my first idea, but wasn't sure if there was some "Oh my god I can't believe you didn't pick this brand" brand.
2006, 3.0 MZR/Duratec
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GeorgeyBoy
> Ryanator122
08/02/2014 at 18:06 |
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Most are probably all made by the same suppliers. Akebono are known to be the best.
The flicker seems to be a common problem.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+…
dogisbadob
> Ryanator122
08/02/2014 at 18:19 |
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In regards to the oil light, it's ok, no problem. That behavior of the light only coming on for a split second at a stop is especially prevalent if you make hard stops. Do you brake hard? That can cause them to wear faster. What happens is the oil sloshes around, and if it goes away from the sensor it thinks there's no oil for a moment.
Centric Premium rotors are awesome because they have a black coating to keep away the rust. Another good rotor is the Fremax rotor, (also sold under the name VGX Platinum); they are the only non-Chinese rotor I know of that isn't super expensive. Check autopartsource on eBay.
The Akebono ProACT is a great pad, but slightly expensive. Other good choices are Wagner Thermoquiet, Axxis Deluxe, Advics, and Stoptech Street Performance.
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Ryanator122
> GeorgeyBoy
08/02/2014 at 18:21 |
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None of them seem to have come to a consensus on what the issue is. Plus, they've all had it happen at 80k mi, im at 150k.
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GeorgeyBoy
> Ryanator122
08/02/2014 at 18:25 |
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The one I read was at 150k http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/259164…
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Ryanator122
> GeorgeyBoy
08/02/2014 at 18:33 |
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Bahhh, thanks, hadn't read that one.
Don't really have the time/money to get the chain or VVT system fixed right now. I'll order the pressure switch with my brakes and see if that sorts it out.
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Ryanator122
> dogisbadob
08/02/2014 at 18:36 |
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I don't stop especially fast... I do know that my engine mounts could do with a replacement, so maybe there's additional pitch on the engine as a result of the worn mounts, and thus, it runs forward slightly more than it ought to. Regardless, I'll get the switch changed now, and the mounts will have to wait until September. Thinking of doing the PCV valve while I've got it at the shop..
jariten1781
> Ryanator122
08/02/2014 at 18:45 |
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I had a 04 6s wagon 5mt for about 10 years 120k. Used The centric rotors and pads from tire rack and they were fine.
Mine also developed the oil light thing about a year before I sold it. Never really amounted to anything. It did consume about a quart every 3k miles and had a lifter tick. That started at around 20k and nothing I did everything fixed it.
I still have some never installed Mazda speed springs and my summer wheels/tires in the garage if you're in the dc metro and want some cheap parts.
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Ryanator122
> jariten1781
08/02/2014 at 18:57 |
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Bahhhh if you weren't in DC I'd so be down, but I'm in California...
Thanks for the info, though. I'm gonna at least do the sensors for now.
orcim
> Ryanator122
08/03/2014 at 03:22 |
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I agree with others about the oil light. But if you're rocking high temps during the season, does it make sense to up the viscosity a little during that time? (When it gets colder, going back down or to multi-viscosity is best.) I had a little light problem with my escort that some sticky oil additive helped out - but I'm sub-tropics, so cold is never an issue.